An Introduction To Our Denim Guide
Ever felt confused when trying to pick a pair of new jeans? With the ranges of denims getting bigger and bigger thanks to the invention of new fits and washing techniques, it’s never been tougher to crack a pair of jeans that don’t just suit you, but that you love too. Have a read of this definitive denim guide, which covers everything from denim washes, to fits and even some quirky brands which are unparalleled in their jean innovation, and make sure that you get your next pair of jeans just right.
Straight - Straight cut jeans do exactly what they say on the tin. They are the bread and butter of denim, offering a parallel leg from the hip to the ankle. These jeans are often finished with a mid or high rise and a deep seat, to give a comfortable, classic fit on the crotch and rear. This is the cut most people will be familiar with, and the one style you can bank on pretty much every denim brand in the world to supply. A straight cut jean such as the Nudie Jeans Sharp Bengt gives you a huge host of styling options. Versatile and practical, they’re perfect for casual wear and great if you need a jean for when you want to look smart but not lose your casual edge. You’ll find the standard leg opening at the ankle makes them perfect for wearing with trainers, or shoes.
Tapered - A tapered jean provides a fantastic silhouette if you’re looking for something with a touch more shape to the leg than a straight cut. Gradually getting narrower from the hip to the ankle, tapered jeans give the straight cut a fashion driven revamp, without making them too skinny. This results in a great cut, which keeps the adaptable nature of a straight legged jean, but offers a bit of a skinnier fit at the ankle. If you like to wear narrower footwear, such as point toe shoes, but want to keep a comfortable fitting jean that is on trend but still has a classic appeal, then a tapered fit jean is for you. Stone Island have recently released a couple of styles of tapered jeans
Carrot - Following the shape of the vegetable it’s named after (but hopefully not with the same bright orange colour), a carrot fit jean is a slightly trendier version of the tapered jean, with a few differences in the shape.
Unlike the tapered fit, which steadily gets narrower towards the ankle from the hip, the carrot fit gets narrower from the knee to the ankle. This means that the wearer gets a classic straight fit on the thigh, but a trendy slimmer fit on the lower leg, making it a great fit for guys with big legs, who still want to have a trendy fit.
Carrot fit jeans are often finished in a low to mid rise, giving a slouchy, comfortable fit on the waist, then giving that trendy look with a narrow leg opening at the ankle.
Relaxed - A relaxed cut is perfect for those who don’t want their jeans to feel too close to their legs. Similar to a straight legged jean, a relaxed fit just offers more room on the thigh and the ankle, making it perfect if you’re carrying some extra weight, have bigger legs, or need extra room on the hips and seat.
This fit is very casual, due to the wide leg opening at the ankle and loose fit down the leg.
Slim - A slim fitting jean is the modern cousin of the straight fit. Still offering a parallel leg from the hip to the ankle opening, a slim fit gives less space on the thigh and calf, giving a much sharper, up to date look. Slim jeans are often mid or low rise and have a less generous seat than a straight fit, giving it some fashion appeal thanks to a crotch that doesn’t look as baggy. If you’re looking for a jean to crossover for a smart/casual occasion, but don’t want something as baggy as a straight fitting jean, then try a slim fit. Styles such as the Edwin ED-80 and Nudie Slim Jim fall in to this category
Skinny - The trendiest fit going, a skinny jean is a fashionable wardrobe must. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that a skinny jean gives a legging look- they are narrow on the leg, but this can be avoided by opting to try a bigger waist size. Skinny jeans such as the Nudie Jeans Grim Timm typically feature a low rise waist as well as a short seat, resulting in a fit that starts fitted around the crotch and rear. The legs are narrow too, down the thigh and onto the calf. The leg opening is small, making it perfect to wear with a host of footwear.
Twisted Leg - First introduced as a show piece by brands to illustrate what they can do with denim, twisted legs or twisted seams jeans give the illusion of wrapping around the leg. Much like a carrot fit, they give extra room on the thigh, then fit much narrower on the calf and ankle, thanks to the way the denim twists and arcs inwards. An extra generous seat gives a loose fit on the rear, whilst a normal rise gives a slightly baggier crotch.
Twisted leg jeans are best kept for casual weekend wear due to their innovative styling.
Raw - Raw denim is denim in its purest form. Without going through any washing, distressing or treatment processes, raw denim becomes stiff, and keeps its incredibly deep indigo colour. Due to it being untreated, raw denim is not as soft as some washed denim, meaning that it needs to be broken in. Wearing raw denim for a few days will soften them up and make them more wearable. Raw denim gives a great opportunity to create a unique wash that can tell the story of how you wear your jeans-raw denim specialists like Nudie and Edwin advocate that you shouldn’t wash your raw denims for at least 6 months. This way, any stress or wear and tear on your raw jeans will become prominent after their first wash. With regular heavy wear, you should be able to see where you’ve kept things in your pockets, how your jeans have creased when you sit down in them, and where your belt has worn on your belt loops. Everyone wears there jeans differently, and takes them to different places, meaning that everybody’s raw jeans wear and age differently. Raw denim is an amazingly versatile colour. Its rich shade of indigo makes it easy to dress up, but it’s also a doddle to make look more casual with a pair of trainers. For a more luxurious Raw denim you might want to take a look at our Levi's Vintage jeans.
Stonewash - Stonewash jeans recreate years of wear through a process which literally uses stones during the washing process. This helps to create fades on the leg, and dramatically change the colour of the jean. Perfect for casual wear, stone wash jeans have quite a few variations. You’ll find some styles which also have abrasions, or rips and tears to add to the style. Sometimes extra colour is added during the stone wash process, to help create dirty washes.
Bleached -Bleached denim carries on where stone wash left off. Adding even more of a wash, expect streaks of white and some seriously pale blue fades down the thighs. These are the perfect colours for Summer, and is often finished in light weight denims, making them perfect for warmer climes.
Coloured - Coloured denim gives denim a brilliant lift and can change its appearance entirely. If you’re fed up of going for the same old washes of blue, take a look at coloured denim as a dressy alternative. Pop colours work great for Summer, with deep navy and black giving you a more Wintery look when the temperature drops.
Acid - A real trend setting colour, acid washes give denim a two tone mottled effect. You’re much more likely to find this kind of colour on a skinny fitting jean than anything else, making it perfect for casual wear.
Indigo - If you love the sound of raw denim, but aren’t keen on having to break them in, take a look at an indigo denim jean. Keeping the intense deep colour of raw denim, but giving you a much softer feel, indigo denim is great for dressing up and solving your smart/casual dilemmas.
Been looking for a pair of jeans to really make you stand out from the crowd? You’ll find a handful of denim brands that are dedicated to creating jeans specifically designed to flaunt some seriously individual features. If you’re after a clean, understated look with iconic branding, then look no further than a pair of Stone Island jeans. Brilliantly constructed and made with denim of pure quality, they come in a host of washes, ranging from indigo through to bleached and even coloured denims. Most importantly, Stone Island jeans feature the distinctive button badge detail on the back pocket, giving a unique way of branding their denims.
If you’d rather have a pair of jeans that will make even more of a statement, take a look at True Religion jeans. With their vintage thick stitching, and insatiable range of washes, they are the king of rock and roll denims with fits range from relaxed to slim. A hallmark of jean innovation, quality and style, True Religion are the epitome of luxury denim, and testament to individual design.
Unwashed Raw Denim After Months Of Wearing
Nudie Jeans have put together this interesting video over on their Youtube channel which shows the effects of leaving your jeans unwashed for 6 months.
Browse this seasons full range of mens designer jeans
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