It’s fair to say fashion has taken a swerve that no one could have anticipated over the past few years, with even the highest of high-end focusing solely on that of the streetwear trend. We explore a brand whos organic identity had them placed rightfully in the rankings of this megatrend from the offset, by documenting them in their new stomping ground.
With an assortment of familiar silhouettes and fabrics, The North Face never fail to impress with their ability to give everything a fresh take. In an array of earthy toned fleece, poly and nylon with healthy dashes of camo print and the newly introduced repeat ‘brand mantra’ text, never stop exploring, you can stand out or blend in as you please.
Co-founded by Colin Tunstall, Morgan Collett and Josh Rosen, Saturdays NYC was founded in 2009 as Saturdays Surf NYC, when the trio discovered that they shared mutual interests including surfing as paramount inspiration. Rather than pigeonhole themselves in an area of financial difficulty in recent years (Quiksilver went bankrupt, alongside its sister brand Roxy, Billabong before that and Rip Curl ran a dangerous line for a number of years looking for a sale) Saturdays ditched the surf from the name and broadened their horizons as a trifecta of New York’s most hyped menswear designers.
Saturdays NYC stemmed from a passion for surfing, art, music and coffee. The trio focused on an organic creative process, looking for inspiration everywhere, each Saturdays store expressing the collective’s intrinsic values such as being decorated with a quirky espresso bar to give a nod to the co-founders’ love for good coffee.
The brand focuses on a minimal, clean aesthetic which is prominent from the brand logo down to the clothing designs. The brand provides staple classic pieces which are ideal for your timeless wardrobe. Ranges of outerwear, shirting, accessories and footwear feature the minimalist look which will always remain stylish. Footwear comes in a range of different styles, from baseball style boots, to slip on and leather trainers, versatile and casual for the laid-back days when you want to kick back in a pair of jeans and a simple cotton t-shirt.
Trust the Swedish to know a thing or two about excellent outdoor gear; with their naturally rough terrain and classically Scandinavian climate, plus the country’s traditional inclination towards a minimal aesthetic, they’re well-positioned to know exactly what to put into clothing to make it work without being overdesigned, and none have been doing it for longer and with more success than Fjällräven.
Named after the Swedish word for the arctic fox, the brand was first conceived in 1960 when a teenage Åke Nordin came up with the idea of a rucksack with an external frame to relieve back pressure. Working in his parents’ home, Nordin honed his idea until it was finally ready: utilising a lightweight aluminium frame, the body of the bag was made from tent material, which was both wind- and water-resistant and highly durable. Over time, the brand developed their own version of this fabric, dubbed G-1000: a 65/35 poly/cotton mix, the fabric refined the properties of the surplus tent fabric into something more supple and easy to wear. The first piece of clothing to use the newly-developed fabric was the now-iconic Fjällräven Greenland Jacket, which quickly became a hit among the fellwalkers, climbers and general outdoor enthusiasts across Europe for its simple, stylish design and utilitarian resistant properties, and was readily identifiable by its distinctive brown leather Arctic Fox patch sewn to the left arm.
Fast-forward to 1978 and Fjällräven has established itself as one of Europe’s go-to outdoor brands for both clothing and accessories. Responding to a report of a rise in back problems among Sweden’s schoolchildren, the brand goes back to its roots to design a better backpack for kids: the Kånken. With its distinctive rectangular shape and canvas Arctic Fox patch, the Kånken remains a hit with kids and adults alike for its comfortable wear, deceptively-spacious capacity and wide selection of colours.
Like many brands who focus on the outdoors, Fjällräven are keenly interested in protecting the environment they love so much: today’s G-1000 fabric utilises recycled polyester and organic cotton, the brand has recently eliminated PFC coatings from its whole range to mitigate any potential harm to the environment, while its supply chain is regulated by the Fair Labor Alliance (FLA), a global organisation to provide fair working conditions and wages across the world. Further, the brand has also donated to initiatives for conservation of its namesake arctic fox, which is under threat from climate change and hunting.
We’re proud to welcome Fjällräven to our selection of the world’s finest menswear brands here at Aphrodite Clothing, and whether you’re after a classic Greenland Jacket, a Kånken backpack or wardrobe essentials like flannel shirts and wool beanies, the leather Arctic Fox mark is your sign of hardwearing quality for years to come.
The Fred Perry x Raf Simons partnership has been a cornerstone of contemporary fashion since 2008 a partnership of two distinctly European masters.
Bringing impressive and unique collections which collaborate accents of the two brands with a distinctly contemporary touch from the Belgian master to embellish the heritage designs of the British sportswear giants, leading to one of the most unique displays in the designer sports world.
Fred Perry and Raf Simons collections are renowned for their subcultural influence. With a mix of sporty silhouettes, bold prints and minimalism, the designs take in Fred Perry’s effect on punk and DIY music culture, incorporating the ethos into taped seams, off centre embellishments, and a distinctly deconstructed aesthetic. The mixture of European flair and classic British wear has become the overarching theme across now 10 years plus of collaborations gifting the now well-known consistency.
With a 10th anniversary collection behind them, the fire doesn’t look to be going out soon. Themes of counter-cultural resistance, conformity, exclusivity and inclusivism line the idealism of Raf Simons vision and Fred Perry’s heritage. Whilst that doesn’t look to stop soon, don’t expect to see a downturn in production.
The collection is home to a range of versatile staples, including t-shirts, polos, sweatshirts and hoodies. In particular, the sweatshirts and t-shirts regularly adorn bold geometric patterns filled with vibrant colours to create a distinctive look. Classic Fred Perry pattens find themselves adapted and redesigned for a new wave of creatives.
In 1966, Paul Van Doren and his three partners opened up their first store in California, with the unique technique of manufacturing shoes ready for their customers to pick up on the same day. The story goes like this:
As the company itself tells it, the opening of its first store was inauspicious. Vans offered three styles, priced from $2.49 to $4.99, but on the day the store opened for business, the company had only made display models. The store racks were filled with empty boxes. Nevertheless, 12 customers came into the store and chose the colors and styles they wanted. The customers were asked to come back in the afternoon, while Van Doren and Lee rushed to the factory to make their shoes. When the customers returned to pick up the shoes, Van Doren and Lee realized that they had neglected to have money available to make change. The customers were given the shoes and asked to return the next day to pay for them. All 12 customers did.
The initial offering from Vans was the Style #44, now known as the Authentic. Each of Van Doren’s original designs was dubbed with a reciprocal numerical code, this process being revitalised for their Anaheim collection.
By the end of the 1970s’ Vans had opened 70 stores in California alone, whilst selling through national and international dealers. The blossoming skate culture of California was known in particular for their love of Vans, being adopted as the defacto skate company thanks to its hand in the formulation of the sport. The adoption from skaters Tony Alva, Stacy Peralta and Jay Adams saw the shoe championed by the innovators of the street skate scene, with both Alva and Peralta working heavily with Vans on their second model, the robust and padded Eramodel. This co-sign from the culture alongside, their ability to adapt ideas from consumer feedback (the waffle sole design, the checkerboard pattern amongst others) and the Slip Ons chance inclusion in Sean Penn’s break out movie, Fast Times At Ridgemont High.
After a whirlwind ascension that saw the brand move deeper into speciality sports footwear, developing baseball, football, umpiring, basketball, soccer, wrestling, boxing, and skydiving shoes all the while expanding their domestic production, the financial impact of such a sudden growth came crashing down on the brand, the company has to file for bankruptcy in 1984, squaring all debts in 1987 and launching their first signature skate shoe with legendary skater, Steve Caballero, birthing the most recognised signature model in the form of the Full Cab and it’s popular variant, the Half Cab.
From then on the Cali brand picked its pedigree back up, selling the company on whilst keeping the Van Doren family involved, outsourcing production, signing the best up and coming pro skaters to the skate team, innovating their footwear in the extreme sports world to offer similar quality levels. A collaboration with then up and coming skate brand Supreme lent a large amount of legitimacy to the Vans company that it had missed since it’s takeover, providing a constant source of creating for both brands with a line that still exists to this day.
From the 00s onward the brand has seen itself become a feature in fashion, rubbing shoulders with established sporting companies like Nike, adidasand New Balance
March 16th, 1966. 52 years of excellence by the way of the Van Doren family. Let’s take a little crash course to remember their impact.
Continuing their 50th-anniversary celebration from 2016, the intrinsically Californian brand continues to offer a high-quality homage to their retro-tinged deluxe line, the Anaheim Factory range. All the elements within the Anaheim Factory releases can be dated back to the late ‘60s and early ‘70s, a time when early adopters, sponsors (and all round skate legends) Tony Alva & Stacy Peraltawere bombing pools with the most robust skate shoes of their time. Cotton laces, heavy 10 oz. canvas, original drill lining found on the heel of each shoe and a higher glossed foxing tape that captures a sheen that originated from the vulcanization process, are all design elements that were seen on the original creations.
Alongside the old design cues, the original Vans signifier for each model, the style code, is branded prominently in the Anaheim collection. Each creation at the factory was given a number as a signifier before their later day dubbing:
Made to take a bashing, The Old Skool is Vans’ first skate shoe that incorporated leather panels for increased durability, as well as being the first shoe to incorporate Vans’ unmistakeable side stripe.
The final design of Vans’ core 5 designs, the Sk8-Hi brought protection to the ankles and revolutionary style to the skate park
With time between their initial re-release to now, the modern tweaks to the Anaheim range have propelled the deluxe (DX) offering to another level, including an ULTRACUSH innard (Vans’ memory foam sole) to enhance comfort whilst maximising style.
Treat yourself to a premium iteration of a classic with Vans’ brand new release of the Anaheim collection.
With a heritage-inspired look that can’t be matched thanks to its sheer quality, style, and deliverance, Paul & Shark has become a defacto statement of effortless luxury and supreme standards in the modern day. With an intrinsic aesthetic that ties in with the nostalgia and connotations of class that a life on the sea carries. Everything that Paul and Sharkdo, from the placement of their iconic shark badge to the materials they cherry pick to craft some of their most sought-after styles with, is methodical, deliberate, and executed with sheer exuberant style. Designed to not just survive, but also thrive in one of the worlds harshest conditions, Paul and Shark clothing represents the hard-fought nature of all seafaring gentleman.Born in 1921 in the sleepy village of Masnago, in the countryside just outside of Milan, Paul and Shark were forged from a mill which was producing knitting textiles.
It was this firm grounding in the understanding of what using quality materials meant to its customers that gave Paul and Shark the impetuous need to adorn their designs a strong yachting design-led look, to prove their materials in one of the most rigorous situations they knew and provide an aesthetic for the world they came from.
The first piece of clothing to leave the Paul and Shark production line was a classic sweatshirt. There wasn’t a great deal about it that was groundbreaking- it was a simple staple style, made with extreme attention to detail and with high-quality materials. However, it was the way in which it was packaged that instantly put Paul and Shark on the map. Encased in a metal tube; commonly referred to by sailors as ‘the can’, this sweater was designed to be worn at sea, and caused a stir as soon as it was shipped out in a multipurpose maritime container to suit its desired intentions.The instant success in the way that Paul and Shark approached their first piece heralded a new age of design, where the focus fell solely on the quality and deliverance of the materials the label used on their styles. Following the innovative path of other Italian brands of the time such as Stone Island and C.P. Company, and offering a functional and practical approach to fashion without compromising any style or quality, Paul and Shark began to develop an entire range. Building on their experience with their first sweatshirt, Paul and Shark ultimately created an entire range of knitwear using innovative water-repellent wool. The collection was a huge hit with anybody who spent their lives in the outdoors, or on the seas, as Paul and Shark became a trusted go to for high-performance clothing that represents timelessness.The original formula of a now highly sought after fit and infamously high standards that exist at every stage of production have propelled Paul and Shark from their humble beginnings in the Italian countryside, to one of the most iconic leaders of an industry where craftsmanship and superiority reign supreme.
With their innovative fabrics paving the way for their expansion into other markets, from skiing to golf and casual wear, Paul and Shark now provide an entire branded look which carries all the design idealisms of Italian craftsmanship. The distinctive look of Paul and Sharkhas ensured that it has remained protected over the years, whilst its clientele has remained ever faithful to the traditions of the brand. Thanks to its iconic maritime image, Paul and Shark have attracted everyone; from people searching for the perfect technical jacket to stave off the cold winter weather, to seasoned sailors looking for a piece of knitwear to wear by the boats, and a shirt with the perfect fit to wear in the clubhouse. Still committed to creating items which have pure innovation running through them, Paul and Shark are one of only a handful of brands who own and manage their own testing centre. Based at their factory which still operates out of Italy, the label with the shark constantly tests new designs, and new materials, to find ways of furthering the functionality and desirability of their clothing.However, the Italian label hasn’t just simply relied on newly found materials to further their position as a world leading brand. With new collections being introduced every season, from collaborations with the Italian coastguard to celebrate one of the most stylish countries in the world’s naval heritage, to styles that have been designed to support the planet’s best yachtsmen with technical designs that are unrivalled in style and quality, Paul and Shark are constantly on the march to improve through well-appointed Italian sea-inspired style.
The techwear ghost turned pioneer of revolutionary clothing fabrication is the trendsetter you need to know about, and if he’s lending his name to it you can guarantee it’s going to make waves in the fashion world. Here’s a brief history on the heir to Massimo Osti’s throne.
To sell a hard-shell jacket for over $1,000, you just have to make a hard-shell jacket that’s worth over $1,000
Kickstarting a clothing revolution in 1994, Hugh and partner Michaela Sachenbacher birthed an independent design and consulting agency dubbed ACRONYM®. Cutting their teeth as guns for hire in the technical apparel world, their work with snowboarding outfitters Burton allowing them space, time and finances to cut their teeth.
Burton was great because they were so irreverent. Snowboarding’s inherently technical. You need the protection, you need the performance for the activity, but it’s got such a punk rock spirit to it. There was never an idea that was too crazy.
Spending a lot of time in Munich providing freelance work for companies allowed the duo to generate a stubborn determination to create the foundations of their techwear revolution.
Why don’t we have this in our everyday clothes? We proposed that idea to everyone we were working with, because we obviously didn’t have any money. All of them said, “No thanks. You’re crazy.” So we figured we’d just do it ourselves.
With that, the agency made the decision to begin the plans for their first ACRONYM product, taking two years to come to fruition and eventually releasing in 2002 ACRONYM’s first collection, dubbed Kit-1 consisted of a jacket, a bag, a soundtrack, software, catalogues featuring concept art, and a few other small items that went above and beyond the usual brand roll out we’re now used to. Their first full collection, released in Fall 2003, was carried by tastemakers like Colette in Paris cementing the brand within a year of its real inception. Until 2009, Errolson and Michaela were the company’s only employees.
I’m the visible part, but Michaela is equally strong as far as aesthetics, and ACRONYM definitely wouldn’t look the same if she wasn’t co-owner
ACRONYM’s collections never have more than 15 pieces, an indication of the painstaking detail that goes into each design.
The whole point of ACRONYM when we started was, “let’s try and establish a way of doing things where we don’t have to compromise on the product.”
As much as the experience of working on a curated product for brands formulated the eventual ACRONYM we know today, the influence came from humbler beginnings.
a major influence in that was karate. It fascinated me because I could do all these movements that I couldn’t do in my regular clothes. It was the first time I understood the results of pattern-making. That triggered a lifelong quest for pants that you could kick people in the head with – another seminal thing for ACRONYM
Martial arts fosters self-reliance, and you learn to trust your own judgment. You realize, in a very real, physical way, that you can do more than you think you can. The whole mind over matter thing, mastering situations, all of that has real-world application, particularly if you’re an entrepreneur or you’re in a super competitive industry, like fashion
Nike / ACG
You know we’re not just going to give these shoes a different color right?
After collaborating with an extensive mix of clients that include Tilak, KHS Tactical, Arc’Teryx, Burton Snowboards, iDiom, Analog USA, GORE-TEX®, Bagjack, Massimo Osti, Herno Laminar, Stone Island, United Arrows Japan and Disaeran, American sports giants Nike tasked Hugh with the revitalisation of their heralded ACG line, using the mastermind’s extensive experience to live up to the ‘All Conditions Gear’ name. Alongside annual collaborations between ACRONYM and Nike, the seasonal drop of ACG allowed Nike to bolster their catalog with a proven air, bringing their retro ACG lines back to the forefront and allowing the reissue of the heralded styles with a renewed vigor and pedigree.Having worked on a multitude of different Nike’s now, 2015’s Lunar Force 1, 2016s Presto Utility, 2017’s AF1 Downtown & Lunar Force 1 anniversary release up to 2018’s recent Air Max day drop of the Vapormax moc that stands as the last collab whilst Hugh remains as creative director, his contract with Nike and ACG running out after next season.
I know a lot of people are expecting us to add zippers and buckles and bolt on some parts, but we actually put those things on to change the function of the shoe. But you can already just slip on the VaporMax, so there was no reason to do that.
With the collaboration came the crowning moment in a 20 plus year career for Hugh, a chance to put his name on the map and fund future projects for his ACRONYM brand.
Working with Nike means that you’re really working with pop culture. It’s not just a product or a collection. It’s so ingrained into so many people’s histories.
STONE ISLAND SHADOW PROJECT
When Paul Harvey retired from his job as creative director at Stone Island, the brand approached Errolson to be a part of the resurgent team, a partnership that gave birth to Stone Island Shadow Project. A hiring of Errolson to revitalise the ACG was a crowning achievement, the appointment of the ACRONYM team to the historically revolutionary creative team at SI allowed a marriage of technical ability and future thinking fashion. Having direct, hands-on experience in the development and integration of every conceivable technical fabric being used today meant that Hugh’s experience and forward-thinking ideas could provide a renaissance for the brand with its mix of masterful longtime employees and new concepts.
At Stone Island there are people who have been building fabrics every single day for decades – people who have been fitting or cutting clothes for their entire lives. You better believe it that we pay attention when they take the time to work with us on a jacket! One of the best things about this industry is that there is always something new to learn. Or, better yet, something OLD to learn.
With the pedigree of his own brand blazing a trail in the technical work just as Massimo Osti had conquered in his early years at Stone Island, it made the decision to hire Hugh as a creative director an obvious choice for the brand. revolutionary ideas such as ACRONYM Analog MD Clone Jacket was one of TIME magazine’s ‘Coolest Inventions of 2002,’ while the ACRONYM GT-J5A jacket sparked it’s own imitators, with Gucci adopting a similar design for a catwalk show in the early part of the decade. This is the kind of attention that made Errolson’s hiring an inevitability rather than a formality.
That’s the only collection we’ve ever worked on where you get to design not only the pieces but also the fabric of those pieces in the collection. They’re so up for trying different things, difficult things, and stuff no one else would even attempt. They’re like, ‘Yeah, let’s add these three processes on top of it and see what happens.’ And you just don’t get that anywhere else.
With ten years under his belt as head of the Shadow Project department, the anticipation for an anniversary collection hit fever pitch at the turn of the year. Considering the fan fair that was generated for the 30th-anniversary collection by Stone Island, you can only expect a similar if not further heralded reaction to a 10th-anniversary collection considering Stone Islands current place as the trendsetting technical wear brand. With this anniversary drop and 21st collection, 6919 as it’s dubbed serves as an ode to the progressive Stone Island division.
Hugh and team created a new set of innovative flank and drop pockets to promote quick storage and retrieval and further similar ideas that had manifested in previous collections. Additionally, fabric research for the special range comes in the form of the Scarebeo textile which is a conspicuously reflective iridescent material inspired by the exterior of beetles, instantly recognisable as a Stone Island fabric yet somehow revolutionary and unique to this collection. The ever-popular Stealth jacket serves as the standout piece of the collection, reworked with the iridescent textile and comes complete with an array of hidden pockets and special 10-year commemorative branding. Parseq system stands core to the Shadow Project as ever, separating the garments into their own category.
The current iteration aims to refine the concepts of utility, nuance, and experimentation that has always existed at the core of this capsule.
Outside of real-life fashion consultation, the Acronym team has been drafted to aid in clothing design for games, manifesting in a marriage of techwear and sci-fi that influenced Errolson’s own approach to his designs.
The relation between science fiction and technological development, and how that affects society, is deeply related to ACRONYM’s aesthetic.
Tasked with designing a real-life functioning techwear trench coat, the Acronym team created the model to be scanned into the digital world, its design echoing principles and creations that can be traced to Errolson’s work with Stone Island.
Eidos, the company that develops Deus Ex, approached us and they flew us out to their Montreal studios and showed us the game development. They explained the character, the situation, what he was doing. We then designed a coat for him as if he was a real person. We basically did the same thing we always do, which was actually built a real-life jacket. We made two prototypes, and the second one was the one that they chose. We actually drafted the patterns like it’s a real coat.
Even Errolson’s relationship with Metal Gear Solid creator Hideo Kojima has left people guessing as to what ties the eccentric creatives might have with one another. Whether it’s business or recreation, the can’t deny the similar aesthetics to the Japanese gaming franchise and Errolson’s own designs, as well as Kojima’s own creation ‘Death Stranding’.
proposition that everyone is already a cyborg; contact lenses, a phone that’s basically external memory. Things you carry around on a day-to-day basis augment you in ways that a few decades ago were science fiction. You don’t have to graft a device onto your skeletal system to be a cyborg. Everybody is already a cybernetic organism because of how intimately electronics are implemented into our life.
Keep your eyes peeled on our blog for more news on Errolson Hugh and his work on the Shadow Project brand in anticipation of their 10th-anniversary release.
One of the most successful American fashion designers of all time, Ralph Lauren made a name for himself with his Polo line of tailored casual clothing. Inspired by the namesake sport, traditionally the preserve of upper-crust university students, the Polo line used the players’ attire from both on and off the field as the basis of his collection, which brought preppy, Ivy League style to a wider audience — button-down shirts, navy blazers and, of course, the classic cotton-mesh polo shirt. With its wide range of colours, neat styling and embroidered polo player emblem, the Ralph Lauren polo shirt is an icon of both the designer’s range and of casual menswear in general. Since its introduction in 1972 — in 24 colours and a single fit — the polo shirt has moved with the times and adapted to its now-worldwide audience with a choice of three distinct fits: the Classic, Custom and Slim fits. The distinction between these fits, particular the Custom and Slim, is quite subtle, so we’ve put together the following guide to help choose the right Ralph Lauren polo for your body, tastes and style.
The original, directly inspired by polo players’ uniforms, the Classic Fit boasts lower armholes, a longer and wider body and extended rear hem for the brand’s roomiest, most relaxed fit. The sleeves sit closer to the elbow and the fuller cut allows for a greater range of movement than the other two fits, making the Classic Fit perfect to wear tucked into chinos or shorts for a classic preppy look.
Designed as a fashion-oriented version of the more traditional Classic, the Custom Fit polo raises the armholes and trims the sleeve length, body width and overall length by 1.5 inches each, giving a neater, more fitted look overall. The loss of length keeps the polo looking smart both tucked and untucked, while the trimmer body and arms will best flatter an athletic physique — if you want to show off all your hard work at the gym, the Custom Fit is the one for you.
The newest of the brand’s fits, the Slim Fit was designed to cater to the tastes of loyal European fans. Keeping the sleeve profile of the Custom Fit, the body width and front hem are trimmed by a further 0.5 inches, while the rear hem is shortened by 1.5 inches to bring it almost level with the front for a sleeker look when untucked.
Whichever fit you choose, the Ralph Lauren polo shirt is a timeless classic that’s sure to fit right in with any man’s wardrobe.