Rick Owens isn’t called ‘The Lord of Darkness’ for nothing, despite spending his formative years on America’s west coast his collections seldom depict the easy, breezy spirit of Cali’ living. Instead, subdued palettes and theatrical styles intertwine, acting as the cornerstone of the Paris-based designer’s aesthetic and heavily informing the immensely popular Rick Owens DRKSHDW offshoot. 

Established in 2005, the diffusion line borrows the avant-garde sensibility conveyed throughout the Rick Owens main collection, reworking the label’s iconic designs but at a much more accessible price point. This has enabled the sub-line to garner an international cult following in which streetwear aficionados don Owens’ show-stopping garments more like a badge of honour rather than a piece of clothing. 

Calling on Greek mythology, the most recent Rick Owens DRKSHDW capsule centers on Phlegethon – one of the five rivers of the underworld, translating to ‘fire-flaming’ in English and bleakly described as ‘a stream of hell’. Taking aim at the pandemic and the anguish the world has endured as a result, in Rick’s own words the collection is a “middle finger to doom.” 

As ever, the offering boasts considerable weight in the form of exaggerated proportions and long-line silhouettes, with a defiant attitude palpable across every single category from tees, trousers and accessories. The label’s synonymous triple-black palette is broken up with hints of plum and dust filtering through, perhaps a creative nod to the expression ‘light at the end of the tunnel’.  

Standouts for us are the Phlegethon shorts and trousers alike; characterised in true Rick Owens style by their drop crotch construction and rock ‘n’ roll rendering. Fiercely opaque and sustainably crafted from organic cotton, each pair is perfectly aligned with the label’s grunge allure. Tees in the collection stretch far beyond the hips with elongated ribbons and Egyptian graphics upping the ante visually while the signature drawstring detail brings both style and substance to various pieces.  

Though dominated by dramatic tones and a bold bravado, the Rick Owens DRKSHDW SS21 collection delivers a positive message that’s suitably in tune with the times – to stand up against adversity wherever possible. Shop key Rick Owens DRKSHDW SS21 pieces online and in-store at Aphrodite Clothing.