Along with its sister labels REPLAY&SONS and WE ARE REPLAY, denim powerhouse REPLAY is situated under Fashion Box S.p.A.’s umbrella – an Italian company which prides itself on the mass production of denim, dating all the way back to 1981.
In the decades since its launch, REPLAY has redefined the jean sector by manufacturing styles which not only work great on the surface but that also carry so much more than the standard superficial requirements. We’re sure you’ll all agree, jeans are a crucial component within your rotations; not only do they see us through myriads of occasions, but they also help bolster the fabric of our own personal identity. REPLAY recognises and responds to this factor by continually toying with fits, fabrics, colourways and environmental needs which all meld to fulfil the wearer’s individual criteria.
Replay of Recent
In 2012 REPLAY and its parent company Fashion Box built a new path for itself after footwear maestros Matteo and Massimo Sinigaglia acquired a majority share within the business. As fresh-face CEOs of the business, the brotherly duo geared millennial-tuned matters into the company, for example, striking a four-year long deal with FC Barcelona’s first team and officially enlisting Neymar Jnr as one of the brand’s ambassadors, in turn grasping mass market appeal across the globe.
As well as injecting star power into the brand’s new-found formula, Matteo Sinigaglia additionally brought REPLAY up to speed with the ever-changing status of the industry, stating “we understood that denim has an authentic origin but needs a contemporary relevance.” With that said, the Sinigaglia family proceeded to launch the REPLAY Hyperflex line – a responsible denim range that strived to revolutionise the industry as we knew it. In doing so, REPLAY’s jeans uncovered tenancy at the epicentre of innovation, employing a three-layer manufacturing strategy that combined elasticity, fabric recovery and comfort. This leading-edge composition of a Lycra central corespin, wrapped in polyester with an outer cotton layer, helped engineer and then protect their jeans’ ability to stretch.
How Do Replay Jeans Fit?
If you’re yet to invest in a pair of the brand’s jeans, we highly recommend doing so since there’s a plethora of styles that cater to all sorts of different needs. Discover the fit of REPLAY Anbass, REPLAY Rocco and REPLAY Zeumar in the jean guides below.
Replay Anbass Fit
Just one of the imprint’s signature silhouettes, but by a clear mile the most popular – REPLAY Anbass is a slim-fitting jean that will remain an evergreen piece within your roster. Subject to 44 pre-finish washes, the Anbass is constructed with a regular waist, tight cut through the leg and comfort-rich seating within the thigh. Often found carrying a five-pocket build and faint, sandpapered whiskers on its base, complete with a reverse leather brand patch.
Replay Rocco Fit
In contrast to REPLAY’s Anbass, REPLAY Rocco is subject to just 5 pre-finish washes. Rendered with a regular waist and comfort fit construction on the hips, this straight leg jean boasts five classic pockets, a zip fly and plenty of everyday versatility.
Replay Zeumar Chino Fit
In a brief but slick blip from their jean offerings, the Italian brand turns its attention to chinos with the REPLAY Zeumar. Regular on the waist and slim through the leg, this fitted design utilises the brand’s stretch-imbued Hyperflex 11.5oz denim and two production washes – comprising an old colour garment dye and stonewash. Choose the Zeumar chino for unrestricted movement through elevated occasions.
We recently had the pleasure of adding esteemed Astorflex brand to our footwear repertoire. Packed full of heritage history delights and sitting proudly toward the upper echelons of the production quality scale, Astorflex not only offers up an all-encompassing array of sturdy shoes but have been dubbed by many as having, ‘the best desert boots in the world.’ With such bold claims flying around and a newly cultivated arsenal of swish suede stompers at our disposal, we thought it only right to showcase the brand in all its storied glory.
History of Astorflex
When it comes to rich historical relevance and masterful levels of craftsmanship few do it better than Astorflex. Originating way back in the 19th century, and having since been passed down from generation to generation, the company started its humble beginnings specialising in the making of wooden clogs. Years later the patrimonial brand established their first factory in the Italian town of Mantova amongst a selection of other small family run business’, quickly making a name for themselves when it came to producing high-quality handmade leather shoes bolstered with wooden solos.
Fast forward to the ‘80s and following both industrialisation and the rise in demand for a more diverse selection of footwear many manufacturers began experimenting with different ways in which shoes could be put together, with many trying their hand at what was dubbed the ‘ideal method’. Bringing with it a sleek modern look and sturdy build, this new technique utilised external stitching to the outer edge of the sole to connect the upper and lower portions of the shoe.
Naturally, the Astorflex brand couldn’t help but try their hand at this new approach and since 1984 it has been their go-to method of construction, fitting seamlessly into their core values of quality, wearability and flexibility which sit central to their ethos.
Craftsmanship
From the outset Astorflex has always placed emphasis on the calibre of their products, shaping their footwear around a stringent set of foundational blocks that pay close attention to elements such as detailing, materials and above all else comfort. With the main body of their offering comprising of timeless shapes such as deserts boots / Chelsea boots, a variety of different fabrics employed and constant innovation across now 6 generations it’s easy to see why they have become a mainstay in the men’s footwear landscape.
Take for example their Greenflex Boots or Bitflex Boots. Made using the finest locally sourced Tuscan suede and leather lined, the Greenflex keep traditional features such as a two-hole lacing system intact whilst the Bitflex equips both an elasticated side panelling and heel pull tab for easy application. Below both pairs sit atop a classic crepe sole that moulds to the foot with every wear, ensuring additional cushioning and a signature finish.
Sustainability
Currently operating under the watchful gaze of great, great-grandson Fabio Travenzoli, the brand has recently made steps toward becoming more sustainable in their approach, allowing for greater transparency at every stage of the business and placing additional significance on developing an eco-conscious methodology.
Using strictly Italian sourced components, water-based adhesives, natural rubber and vegetable dyeing techniques, that not only omit dyes and artificial colour finishes but makes the finished product healthier and more absorbent, to create something 100% ecological, Astorflex continue to look ahead, researching new ways to adapt their responsibly charged mantra.
Stepney Workers Club: The East-London Brand On A Mission…
Easily identifiable thanks to its liberal tagline of ‘Freedom of Sport, Freedom of Thought’, Stepney Workers Club is a London livin’ label hell-bent on delivering some of the most timeless kicks you’ll ever lay eyes on.
Now well-regarded for churning out vulcanised classics in their thousands, this relatively new footwear brand has proved itself quite the conversation starter since joining the ranks of the industry a mere two years ago in 2018. But where did it all begin for the proud East End native?
Well, the concept behind the brand was actually established through a genuine link to the original ‘Stepney Workers Sports Club’ – an anti-fascist, anti-war group born in the heart of Stepney Green many moons ago. In more specific terms, one of the brand’s founders uncovered that he is, in fact, a descendent of this exact sports club… his own grandfather turns out to be one of the original members of the 1920s startup! The connecting of these personal dots would lead the label to dig deep into the cultural significance of working men’s clubs, hoping in turn to cultivate its own unisex interpretation of the movement with a contemporary footwear offering.
While delving into the ‘Stepney Workers Sports Club’ archives, head of design Roger Pereira and his peers came across a photograph – dated 1936 – which coined the slogan ‘Freedom of Sport, Freedom of Thought’, and so the now-famous SWC mantra was surrendered to a fresh purpose. The phrase itself gave birth to the brand’s ‘liberal undertone’ from the outset. This matched with the desire for an all-inclusive image, and a strong determination to fill a gap within the vulcanised market set Stepney Workers Club up with a foolproof brand strategy from the get-go.
Working as an antithesis to the frequent sneaker drops and unattainable hype of the current climate, Stepney Workers Club’s aesthetic is with all its being timeless and free of unnecessary fuss. Clean lines, emphasised proportions, and not an unsightly ‘Dad sneaker’ insight; the label’s portfolio proves immensely wearable among many generations. Centreing solely on just two silhouettes, either low-profile or high-top – to which the brand resists over-expanding for fear of endangering their appeal, the latest capsule toys with a multitude of versatile but dependable colourways whilst also experimenting with unique textural elements.
To get the SWC ball rolling here at Aphrodite the brand has kindly acquainted us with its signature ‘Dellow’ and ‘Varden’ silhouettes. Both designs are the result of a vintage reference point; paying tribute to the vulcanised styles that were so ubiquitous between the ‘50s and ‘80s. Each is crafted using a combination of traditional and bygone methods, with a cotton drill canvas upper, vulcanised rubber sole, high-wall foxings, and the brand’s symbolic handshake logo which represents the unity and liberal mindset from which the brand is born.
If you’re on the hunt for a staple and refined sneaker that won’t age, look no further than the realm of minimalisation that is Stepney Workers Club. Hit the brand up via our online roster now.
Formulated out of functionality, the Gramicci brand specialises in clothing tough enough to withstand the rigors of outdoor pursuits. Founded in the ‘80s by experienced Californian climber Mike Graham, the brand owes its name to Mike’s role in the first all-Italian ascent of the world-renowned Half-Dome.
Found nestled amongst the wonders of Yosemite National Park, Half-Dome is famed for its unique shape, tricky routes, and sheer size. Towering at a knee-shaking elevation of 8.842 not only did the intimidating heights and unavoidable physical strain of the job at hand pose a threat to the group’s goals but so to did their non-European origins, with a grand total of 0 Italians found within their ranks.
Undeterred, Mike and his friends pressed on employing both advanced skills and a selection of newly invented trans-Atlantic pseudonyms to complete their mission. Half-Dome conquered, Graham no more and Gramicci born. Needless to say, the name stuck, and in the years that followed Mike used his experience gained as an active participant in the rock climbing community to set up the brand we see before us today.
The Gramicci G Shorts
Releasing their first pair of Gramici shorts in 1982, the brand quickly became known for its penchant for super practical legwear, putting in place a plethora of innovative features that still stand as signature trademarks for more than 30 years later.
Designed with the young explorer in mind and paying close attention to the motions of a climber’s body, the G shorts / G pants boasted a gusseted crotch for unrestrictive movement as well as a built-in nylon belt and rugged cotton twill construction.
Using this as a foundation, the brand has since expanded into other clothing-related forays, experimenting with a variety of different cuts, fabrics, and silhouettes whilst cultivating a rich community of like-minded individuals through an ethos of exploration.
Gramicci Performance Range
No more present is the brand’s exploratory approach than with their performance line. A space to delve deeper into new ideas and try their hand at some of the most groundbreaking materials in the industry, this offshoot proving ground allows the preservation of classic ideals whilst ensuring Garmicci’s forward-thinking edge is continually sharpened.
Made to support whatever activity and elements the wearer embarks on, the collection takes advantage of everything from UV protective Sheltek, comfortable storm fleece, and versatile RECTAS / SOLOTEX fabrics to insulating Pertex, durable Cordura and waterproof GQRD 3 layer materials. In short, if you happen to find yourself halfway up a rather large granite face or hiking in the wilderness, this is the stuff to do it in.
Bridging The Gap
Aside from the finer specifications, Gramicci has also made waves when it comes to cultural significance. Thriving in overseas markets such as Japan and finding acceptance into the streetwear tribe, they played a substantial role in changing the widespread perception of utilitarian clothing.
Unlike today when you’d be hard-pressed to point out a brand that hasn’t yet dabbled in Goretex, outdoor clothing of the time was largely deemed as a bare-bones, necessity driven, and uninteresting when casting through a fashion lens. With the worlds of aesthetics and function rarely crossing paths Gramicci, among others, were some of the first to place an emphasis on not only the methodology of their clothing but how it looked, allowing lifestyle and performance to coexist, opening their craft to an entirely new audience and perhaps setting a precedent for future styling trends.
Combine this with their rock climber insignia, that coincidentally draws close resemblance to another of their ‘80s Californian neighbours Stussy who were at the forefront of the early streetwear movement, and the brand found itself quickly adopted as a permanent fixture of skate and surf shops, forming collaborations with the likes of Mastermind and having their unique cornerstone features referenced time and time again.
American streetwear imprint Alife ® may be new to Aphrodite’s shelves, but in actual reality, The Big Apple-based brand has been in circulation for way longer than you may think. In fact, the design studio stands as one of the true originators of streetwear – read on to find out how.
Alife Brand Guide
Inspired by the downtown culture from which it surrounds itself, the lifestyle label is the product of four friends – Arnaud Delecolle, Tony Arcabascio, Tammy Brainard and Rob Cristofaro – who each observed and strived to fill New York City’s ‘creative void’ many moons ago… Enter, the realm of Alife.
Conceived in ‘99, Alife® began its humble beginnings as a creative workshop on Manhattan’s Orchard Street. There, like-minded individuals would share and unite their ideas, in turn, cultivating an exclusive artist collective and fresh, expressive designs that were soaked up by all who were willing to make the initial investment. Quickly transforming from a simple passion project to a household name, Alife® – which is named after the desire to enliven animate objects – uncovered mass appeal, having bolstered a rivalled rapport with America’s most stylish, street-ready and forward-thinking denizens.
But although the entire essence of streetwear is so ubiquitous now, back in the late nineties and early noughties the culture was much less of a universal phenomenon. The original streetwear zeitgeist was brought into existence by not only Alife, but a multitude of its now world-renowned peers, who themselves started out life within the city’s diverse boroughs, such as Supreme and 10.Deep. The neighbouring nature of these exclusive boutiques within the city and the hype their names instantly induced would help to lay the foundations of streetwear culture and transcend the fashion industry forever.
These days Alife® is fresher than ever. Having undertaken a brief hiatus a few years ago to level out its ethos and re-tune to the current climate; the skating/streetwear brand not only maintains its status with the pioneering generation but now accounts the millennial age as one of its greatest allies thanks to a slew of high-profile collaborations with the likes of Nike, adidas, Dickies and more.
Here at Aphrodite, you can expect the first roll-out of products to comprise a range of urban-minded gear. Pre-shrunk, 12oz fleece fits make for cosy, off-duty staples, while branded five-panel caps ensure accessibility and a rotational start point. The tees, in all their looks and colourways, distinctively hark back to the downtown status Alife® was born and bred for.
One of the newer brands to find themselves among the Aphrodite ranks we thought we would take some time to take a peek behind the Drole de Monsieur brand curtain and shed some light on exactly why they should be a very large blip on your clothing orientated radar.
Created in 2014 by friends, Dany and Maxime, the Drole de Monsieur brand is a French ready-to-wear label that places emphasis on clean lines, quality fabrication, and bold design. Born out of a shared passion for clothing, the desire to put their own stamp on the industry, and a distinct vision for the future, the brand quickly found itself carving out a distinct identity in the French fashion sphere for their off-kilter take on contemporary clothing.
Roughly translated to, “funny gentleman” the brand finds their roots based in the small town of Dijon were, with no prior experience in the fashion world, the brothers coined the phrase, “not from Paris madame” as part of their first collection. Standing as not only a tongue in cheek reference to their fashion capital outsider status and lack of industry knowledge but a now-iconic focal point of their core offering, the callout can still be found embroidered, printed and embossed across their garments to this day.
Drawing from a vast list of differentiated influences the Drole de Monsieur brand boasts a particular knack when it comes to their ability to cleverly merge a range of juxtaposing themes. Blurring the lines that stand between everything from retro styling and modern minimalism to vintage cuts and on-trend fabrication the brand effortlessly mixes their expansive selection of source material with a healthy dose of vibrant hues and strong branding.
Focusing on everyday versatility and uniting their collections under one common theme the brand instead opts to utilise intricate detailing, quality fabrics, and clever alterations to add playful twists to timeless staples and subtle modifications on traditional sportswear tropes. The result is everything from pristinely tailored tracksuits, velvet rugby shirts, and reworked outerwear to modern sportswear, quality sweats, and bold accessory pieces all dripping with quintessential Drole de Monsieur brand flavour.
Take a look at our full Drole de Monsieur collectionand look out for the brand’s SS20 collection coming very soon.
Since joining the sneaker circuit back in 2015, London-based Mallet Footwear brand has steadily climbed the ranks of the industry to become the lauded label it is today. Television star, Tommy Mallet, and his business partner, Evren Ozkarakasil, are the talented, driving forces behind the brand; having started the adventure as a means to fill a gap in the British trainer market, and collectively, fulfil their passion for premium footwear.
Fast-forward four years down the line and Mallet has garnered quite the cult following for itself, no doubt backed by Mallet’s flurry of loyal followers and ardent luxury sneaker aficionados in abundance. But, the mass attention and success Mallet has acquired since its inception is incredibly well deserved. Mallet and Ozkarakasil are both savvy entrepreneurs in the background; keeping their fingers firmly on the pulse of the industry, seeking out emerging trends before they hit the mainstream, and spinning their own interpretation of them to present to the world at large.
Aesthetically, the Mallet Footwear brand has anchored an unmistakable identity that rarely strays from its neutral colour palette. This ubiquitous look is widely welcomed by millennial’s, with the greys, blacks, and beige’s of each sneaker making for a versatile addition to any rotation. The brand’s continuing efforts to tap into the sneaker zeitgeist are certainly visible throughout each collection, take for instance Mallet’s AW19 offerings, from the Kingsland trainer to the Diver 2.0 and Lurus silhouette, each design is symbolic of the chunky trainer trend that has taken the industry by storm in recent years.
Amidst contemporary design lines and bulbous outsoles, each Mallet delivery also boasts an immaculate finish that can be owed to the production expertise of Ozkarakasil. With plenty of prior experience on the production side of things, Ozkarakasil is on hand to ensure the product meets the brand’s superlative standards. With this said, the Mallet Footwear brand choose to lean on the competence of European manufacturers to hand make each product, using only the finest of materials, from leather to suede and often, scuba.
The Essentials
Despite only becoming a household name in recent years, Mallet has already dignified itself with a set of iconic looks that have become statement pieces in many wardrobes. Combining textures and silhouettes to achieve timeless looks, the brand works on its own styles on each year, elevating them in design as each season progresses.
GRFTR Trainers
Where subtle colour tones meets luxurious fabrications, the GRFTR sees statement making silhouettes combined with premium minimalism. Featuring leather uppers and a more streamlined sole than other Mallet variations, the GRFTR acts as the brands interpretation of a classic sneaker.
Sat upon the heel, the signature metal clip is displayed across various metallic finishes in the style, marking your shoe with the brands iconic style.
Style Tip: Style these for the perfect smart casual look, with their more muted silhouette being ideal for classic looks such as jumpers layered with shirts and straight leg jeans.
Kingsland Trainers
Starting with a sleek and streamlined toe and morphing into a subtle bulk to the rear, the Kingsland is a sturdy unit ideal for those that seek out a little edge in a classic trainer. Introducing suede accents, raised stitching and perforated details to the sole, this shoe provides tonal texture throughout, with new aspects coming to light each time you look at the piece.
Style Tip:Designed for versatility, the Kingsland is a shoe that can be teamed with joggers and jeans alike, being adaptable to varying styles and formalities.
Diver Trainers
The most iconic of the Mallet looks, the Diver is the recognisable shoe that allowed them to rise to fame. Adorned with their classic reflective metal clip, the Diver sees a combination of premium leather and scuba used throughout the main body, producing a comfortable shoe that moulds to your foot. The bulbous sole and perforated accents promises a dramatic look to go with any outfit, with some of their styles introducing camo windows for the extra added touch.
Style Tip: The merge of materials in the Diver can provide the inspiration for the rest of your outfit. Style these iconic trainers with layered outfits that bring the combination of textures to your full look, such as your favourite over shirt with a classic white t-shirt and jeans.
As many brands in the business will know, it takes a certain kind of perseverance to truly get an idea up and running off the ground. Both Mallet and Ozkarakasil have effortlessly expressed exactly this in their starting years; pushing ahead with ambition and zero limits. From simply putting pencil to paper, the duo has found their calling and truly established a footwear force to be reckoned with – in Mallet’s words, ‘choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life.’
Explore the trendsetting works of Mallet in-store and online at Aphrodite this season.
Kenzo is a fashion brand renowned for its bold prints and luxurious designs, which combine Asian influences with traditional European silhouettes and techniques. Quickly rising to prominence within the industry, the brand exude a true air of youthful yet opulent prestige, reinterpreting contemporary codes to celebrate cultural diversity whilst continuing to pursue a borderless approach to their work. From humble beginnings crafting his first designs from scrap fabrics to gracing the torsos of some of the world’s most famous and influential people, the Kenzo brand is perhaps most famous for its Kenzo tiger logo, which graces a whole slew of Kenzo t-shirts, sweatshirts, and hoodies.
Elsewhere the brand plays with proportion, colour, and branding to create a forward-thinking vibe and an easygoing, wearable aesthetic. All of Kenzo’s garments maintain their original dedication to exceptionally high-quality fabrication: beyond looking good, the Kenzo brand has to be felt to be truly appreciated. From classic polos to sweatshirts, luxuriously soft knitwear, and utility-inspired trousers, the Kenzo men’s collection truly carry on the original spirit of the brand.
Who Founded Kenzo?
Kenzo was founded by designer Kenzo Takada following his move to Paris in 1964. Born in Himeiji, Japan to traditional innkeeper parents, he developed a love for fashion at an early age, dropping out of his literature studies at the University of Kobe to attend Tokyo’s Bunka fashion College. Creating clothes for various department stores before the launch of his own brand, Kenzo would retire from the company in 1999.
When Was Kenzo Started?
Kenzo was originally started in 1970, where the brand opened their first physical space at the Gallerie Viviene. Focusing primarily on womenswear, the designs were hailed by American Vogue as the next evolution of boutique fashion the following year it what would mark the beginning of an illustrious history.
Launching their first menswear collection 13 years later in 1983, the brand would go on to launch a womens perfume line in 1988 followed by their men’s fragrance counterpart in 1991, skincare in 2001 and more recently a homeware diffusion line in just 2005.
What Is The Kenzo Logo?
Arguably one of the most recognisable Moniker’s in modern day fashion, Kenzo are often identified for their bold tiger branding that can be seen strewn across sweatshirts, t-shirts and jackets alike. Created during Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s time spent as Creative Directors, the decision to introduce the now iconic tiger logo was originally met with some controversy and pushback from the deign team given the removal of the previously embedded flower logo. Releasing as part of the brand’s FW 2012 collection, the first run of Kenzo Tiger Sweatshirts sold out within hours at their Paris headquaters in a sign of things to come for the now omnipotent insignia.
Celebrities wearing Kenzo
Thanks to the irresistible allure of Kenzo’s sprightly energy, immaculate quality and intricate detailing it doesn’t come as a surprise to many that some of most famous names in the celebrity world favour their garments. With rappers such as Jay Z, ASAP Rocky, Roddy Ricch and J Cole spotted on numerous occasions wearing a range of select pieces, you can also find Chance The Rapper heading up the brand’s 2016 collaborative campaign with H&M.
Of course it’s not just the musical world in which Kenzo has found success, with countless stars from film, television and sport choosing to opt in to the fashion houses vision. Such names include comedian / actor Kevin Hart, basketball players such as Russell Westbrook, Jimmy Butler and Brandon Ingram as well as many other countless sightings.
How To Style Kenzo
Kenzo is unique in the sense that it has many versatile ways in which it can be worked it both laidback and smart outfits alike. Thanks to their focus on bold prints, patterns and graphics items such as the Kenzo Tiger Hoodie can be worn as a statement piece alongside more stripped back garments such as a casual pair of jeans and sneakers, for a super casual, effortless but still put-together look.
As for Kenzo’s more high end tailored output, some of their more refined knitwear and shirts can be combined with trousers, derbies and an overcoat for a sophisticated and sleek result. With subtle details such as a tucked in top half and a more relaxed wider cut pant leg only serving to elevate your look, you can create a fashion-forward aesthetic in no time at all.
Stone Island’s reputation continues to build, a brand at the heartbeat of the casual scene, synonymous with the music, football and street culture.
The History of the Stone Island Brand
The Stone Island brand name has many different connotations for many different people; for some, it is inextricably linked with football culture, in particular the casual movement — either in a positive or a negative sense; for others, it has become associated with the grime music scene and has extended its reach beyond the terraces and onto the streets. But first and foremost, that iconic Compass badge on your sleeve is a symbol of quality, innovation and style — the principles on which the brand as we know it was founded back in 1982.
Stone Island owner Carlo Rivetti is from a family with long ties to the clothing industry. By the 1980s, though, he had grown restless within the world of formalwear and sought to diversify into something he found more appealing: sportswear. He and his sister established a firm — the creatively-named Sportswear Company — and scoured Italy looking for companies that shared their vision for innovative casual clothing, where they discovered (and promptly acquired) CP Company.
Stone Island itself, however, was conceived almost by accident: Massimo Osti — founder and designer for CP Company, and household name for those in the know about technical sportswear — had conceived a new fabric dubbed Tela Stella, a heavyweight, oilskin-like material impregnated with different pigments on either side and was determined to make something out of it. He couldn’t find a way to make it fit within CP Company’s collection, however, and so decided to craft a small collection of just seven jackets. In keeping with the military and nautical inspiration behind the Tela Stella fabric, he chose a compass as the logo for his new diffusion line: Stone Island was born.
Stone Island and Streetwear: From the Terraces to the Streets
Moving forward from this inauspicious start, Osti pushed ahead with fabric innovation, endlessly researching new textiles and ways to implement them, coming up with often outlandish, off the wall fabrics that no-one else had even thought of: heat-reactive weaves; nylon fabric laminated with hundreds of glass beads to change the colour in different angles; earth-dyed, acid-corroded canvas. This over-the-top approach, along with the masculine, military styling of the brand’s offerings was a large part of ‘Stoney’s’ appeal to the football casual crowd: fans travelling abroad for away and international games were always on the lookout for new and exciting garments to bring home and show off. Stone Island, with the one-off and unique nature of a lot of Osti’s fabrics, fits perfectly into this culture of one-upmanship, and the brand’s popularity was cemented from then on.
Because of this association with the hyper-masculine world of football casuals, the brand’s enduring legacy has been as a symbol of manliness. In more recent years, it has been adopted by inner-city kids in the UK as a status symbol, and in turn, became associated with the grime music scene. Buoyed up by high-profile collaborations with streetwear giants Supreme and Nike, the brand’s appeal has diversified beyond connoisseurs and collectors, particularly across the Atlantic. Urban music superstars like Drake, Frank Ocean and Travis Scott have all embraced the ‘Stoney’ look of late, skyrocketing interest in a brand that was previously alien to those not living in Europe, and launching its appeal to a whole new generation of streetwear fans.
Stone Island Fabrics: Continuing Innovation
These days, far from being helmed by a single visionary like Massimo Osti or later designer Paul Harvey, Carlo Rivetti has assembled a team of designers to better embrace its newfound worldwide popularity and the diversity of its fanbase, stating “It [is] necessary to be multicultural in order to be truly contemporary … I felt that in this era it is this possible to face all aspects of a world only with several minds and several visions.”
This ethos has lead to the continuation of the innovation and research that Massimo Osti started all those years ago, and Stone Island holds its reputation for using unusual and technologically-advanced fabrics and finishes. Some recent examples:
Micro Reps: Stone Island Micro Reps is one of the brand’s staple fabric constructions. Classic nylon, the warp and weft fibres are of different thicknesses, allowing for a much tighter weave than traditional nylon fabric. This not only provides natural weather resistance but serves as the ideal base for the brand’s garment dyeing experiments.
Crinkle Reps: Named after its appearance, stone island crinkle reps jackets are crafted from lightweight nylon reps with an ultra-tight weaving construction that is garment-dyed.
Nylon Metal: We’ve written about this one before: nylon fibres with an irregular structure are woven as grey weft and white, ready to dye warp threads, and undergo an elaborate double-dyeing process to produce a fabric that has an iridescent sheen in different lighting conditions. This can produce a subtle three-dimensional effect, or be used with bright, contrasting colours to provide some pretty wild results.
Tank Shield: Crafted from matte polyester fabric, the whole jacket is first assembled and then internally laminated with overlapping panels of a weatherproof, breathable membrane, giving superior weather resistance and a near-seamless look.
Heat Reactive: A highly limited capsule, the Stone Island Heat Reactive jacket from SS19 was a cotton ripstop construction, printed all over with a three-colour fractal camo design in a heat reactive pigment. As the wearer’s body heat warmed the fabric, the pattern became brighter and more prominent, also revealing a large Stone Island logo to the back.
This is just a tiny fraction of the scope of the brand’s vision: the brand’s own historical archive consists of over 7000 pieces, while their research archive is larger still, at over 40,000 items of vintage sportswear and militaria.
Stone Island Badges
Aside from the high-end fabrics and construction, perhaps the most important element of a Stone Island product is the removable badge, normally found on the left side of the garment, with the Marina collection breaking the mould and not featuring the badge at all, instead opting for bold text printing. There are a number of different versions of the badge which denote different aspects of the brand. The standard, most commonly recognised badge is the yellow and green compass rose badge (above left). Despite switching from a green border to a black one, the classic badge has remained unchanged since the brand’s inception and is a tribute to both the military inspiration of the brand and the sense of adventure and exploration driving Osti’s research.
There are a number of monochromatic badges (above centre) that were originally used for what the brand dubbed Ghost Pieces: with fully tonal designs in a variety of colours, including black, red and white, they were conceived as a kind of modern camouflage, allowing the wearer to blend in while still keeping the unmistakeable Stone Island aesthetic. More recently, the tonal black badge has been used to denote pieces from the Shadow Project diffusion line: combining Stone Island’s technical fabric expertise with directional, futuristic designs from ACRONYM’s Errolson Hugh.
The White Compass badge (above right) is seen on limited edition pieces, often known as ‘Champagne Pieces’ because of the colour of the badge. These jackets often use even more innovative fabrics and construction that can only be created in small quantities and are often at a higher price point to the normal line, due to the limited nature of their production. Of course, the flip side of this limited aspect is that the pieces become collector’s items in years to come, holding their value for a lot longer than others, if not increasing it.
Interested in learning more about the Stone Island Badge? Dive into our recent articles that delve into the journey of the Stone Island Badge’s evolution. Discover the rich history behind this emblem and explore its intriguing variations throughout the years.
As mentioned above, Stone Island has been spotted on more and more celebrities recently. One of the more high-profile representatives of the brand has been music superstar Drake, who seems to wear the brand almost exclusively these days, even going so far as to have custom pieces made for his Boy Meets World tour. Drizzy is joined in his love for Stoney by fellow Canadian star The Weeknd, who was recently spotted wearing pieces from the Supreme x Stone Island collaboration (for extra streetwear kudos), as well as rap mainstays Kanye West and Travis Scott.
Back over in Blighty, grime artists are often spotted sporting the Compass, including Tinie Tempah and Skepta, while Hollywood hardman Jason Statham is another of the brand’s high profile fans.
Stone Island Headquarters Tour Video
In this unique video, Carlo Rivetti opens the door to the Stone Island empire and allows the public a sneak peek at the research and experimentation that goes on behind the scenes. It offers a fascinating glance into how the brand operates behind closed doors.
